Recycling and Regeneration in the Textile World

Building a regenerative textile practice

It is safe to say that we live in a world of excessive material waste, the textile industry being one of the leading culprits in pollution, excessive water usage, toxic chemical infiltration, and greenhouse gas emission. From land degrading agricultural practices and use of pesticides, inhumane working conditions, to overconsumption and waste production, the fashion and textile industry is fraught with difficulties. It is estimated that about 15% of fabric intended for clothing ends up on the cutting room floor. However it is said that up to 95% of textiles that end up in landfills each year could have been recycled. Much of the material that already exists in our systems is reusable.

Redirecting Industry Waste

Organizations such as New York City’s ‘Fab Scrap’ (which developed to meet NYC’s textile recycling needs) have been working to divert fiber from the waste stream. Fashion, interior and costume designers, textile artists, tailors, and more can recycle unused materials with ‘Fab Scrap’ , redirecting them to artists, teachers and makers around the country to be repurposed.

Cultivating Regional Fiber Systems

Here in California, movements such as ‘Fibershed’ (which now has branches around the US and the globe) work from the ground up to connect local farmers, ranchers, millers, designers, makers and producers with the intention of creating a thriving regional fiber system. Their philosophy evolves around the premise that textiles should be able to circulate in a healthy manner from soil (that feeds the plants and animals which provide non-synthetic fibers) to soil (a finished product with the ability to decompose safely).

Mending

Mending, patching, and repairing provide ways to elongate the life of a beloved item. There are endless techniques that can be used to mend ripped, moth eaten, time worn fibers and give them new life. Sashiko (meaning little stabs) is a traditional Japanese embroidery technique used to reinforce cloth that has grown thin or broken due to use. Sashiko originated from a practical need to extend the life of a wardrobe but developed into a meticulous and beautiful art. Customization with embroidery, bedazzling with rhinestones, applique, and other alternations can also be used to reinvigorated under-appreciated cloth products. “Mending as Metaphor” is a Los Angeles, CA based collective that comes together around the mending table. They host mending groups and workshops, teaching and facilitating mending for all levels of experience.

Artists that Re-use

In the following article TextileArtist.org takes us through the work of five different artists, detailing the ways in which they repurpose and recycle materials in their art practices.

These are just a few of the multitude of individuals, organizations and movements working to re-evaluate and change contemporary practices around textile waste and pollution. This article attempts to touch on a few of these efforts and to empower the reader to learn about and begin to explore avenues through which to develop their own sustainable fiber based practice.

Cover image: Julie Peppito, “Still Life Painting”, 2020, 20”x30”x1”, canvas, collage, acrylic paint, gouache, found objects and fabric. TextileArtist.org.